Beni Dolpo Trek

Afternoon flight from Kathmandu to Pokhara and transfer to hotel.

Drive from Pokhara to Beni and then Darbang by Jeep.

Cross the Myagdi Khola on a large suspension bridge and follow the currently unused road through quintessential middle hills. Climb steep zigzags, descend and cross the Danyga Khola and climb 300m steeply, rewarded by impressive views of Mt Dhaulagiri (8167m, 7th highest in the world; “dazzling white mountain” in Nepali). The road continues to Dharapani (Prena Guesthouse very friendly, Roka Hotel 2 rooms). Every piece of flat land is covered in vivid rice and the people are shy and polite, even the children. Contour above the village to Takam (Rojina Lodging) which provided an excellent dalbhat of tomato, potato and okra with our first hempseed achar. Mountain views to Nilgiri and the

Annapurnas continue to Sibang (1610m), which has Hotel Namaste. The road turns towards the Dhaulagiri circuit trek but branch left to Machim, with no hotel. Crest a ridge, descend on steps to the Ghatta Khola and traverse to Muna.

Drop to a bridge across the Dhara Khola, climb gently on the true left bank then start a long climb past a picturesque waterfall to the Magar village of Lumsum (2150m). Cross the Dhara Khola again and start the long climb to the pass, first through the scattered hamlet of Moreni (~2500m) with apple orchards and water then into scrubby forest and unrelentingly steeply up a ridge into rhododendrons to a notch at 3350m. Climb and traverse onto the large meadow of Jalja La (3510m; Jaljala).The evening and morning views are superb, better than those from Poon Hill given the serenity, spanning the entire Dhaulagiri massif including Putha Himal 7246m to the left to Nilgiri 7061m and the Annapurna range.

Today's trail continues across the plateau, past greater Dhaulagiri views to a second meadows, which offer an alternative campsite. From here, trail descends past stone hut and herders hut then cross three wooden bridges to the junction of two streams. Follow the stream and pass another herder huts, pine forest then brings you wide open valley Gurjaghat. Continue flat trail to chyantu the first village of Dhorpatan. Follow the scattered houses of Bagatar and Baglung to Dhorpatan village inhabited by about 300 Tibetan refugees, many Magars and Chhetris. 

From Dhorpatan, we begin the second phase of the trek and venture north into the largely uninhabited wilderness. Today is hard but scenic day of the trek. Trail climbs above the valley floor, branching right after 25 minutes up to a collection of houses. The trail climbs diagonally to the false summit and continues climbing to crest and herder hut at 3510m. From crest there are views of Phagune dhuri pass far head. The trail crosses the treeline and enters rough wilderness landscape , eventually cross Phagune Dhuri at 4061m offers fabulous view of Churen Himal range and Putha Hiunchuli(7246m) ‘the butter fly’ mountain. From the pass the trail leads passing small campsite and enters into forest the drops to the riverbed of hidden valley Thakur. 

The route now leads west down the Ghatlang valley through a dim and mossy forest of fir and oak. Cross the wooden bridge and trail climbs steeply to Ghatlang village the trail climbs along the hillside and finally emerge a ridge at 3140m. Follow the ridge also known as Selep Danda continue making up and down to Khalim at 2890m on the hill top. The trail drops steeply over root and through overgrown forest, eventually the path becomes clearer and makes a long descends to Jhatlung Khola, cross the bridge and short walk arrives a valley junction Tatopani. 

A very rough jungly track leads north through fields and down to cross the Pelma Khola at 2227m, the lowest point between here and Kagbeni, then climbs very roughly and very steeply to rejoin the track from Yamarkhar under cliffs. The skeins of mist and tropical heat made this a demanding beautiful climb. Sighted a pair of jungle cats with brown bodies and long black tails. A profusion of wildflowers in the jungle and along the exposed traverse northwards made this a memorable day, with lunch in the Tibetan village of Hima (~2400m, Him) surrounded by 3-4m high maize, climbing beans and marijuana. Most of the maize goes for chang beer, not for food or stock. The hemp seed and rhubarb achar was a first. Traverse and climb very high on an exposed trail with recesses into forest and running water to Gulbang (2680m) with no services then past a school which has the last water for a while then up steeply into forest to Dhule (3340m).

Today's trail climbs steeply through the moss draped forest above Dhule top of the ridge and then continues to climb along the ridge. Trail gradually climbs through the ridge but this time above the tree line through the scenery reminiscent Scottish highland, where outstanding view of Dhaulagiri to the east. The trek continues ascending to Nautale Bhanjyang at 3961m and descend steeply toward Seng Khola valley a tributary of Pelma Khola. Trail continues along the west bank of river climbing gradually to the campsite of Seng Khola. 

Make sure that you take the first obvious track on the ridge upwards to the left, quite heavily eroded and about 1km up-valley. Matthiessen and Schaller got lost here taking the more northerly ridge. Climb steadily for about 700m with great views to the broad Panidal La 4530m, past a sacred lake and a gateway kani on the far bank. Many thousands of people had been camping up here over the monsoon and searching the grazing areas for the elusive and high value fungus-infected caterpillar called yarsagumba, Himalayan viagra. The huge amount of rubbish and damage to the landscape was obvious but they had all departed in the past few weeks. Continue on a broad eroded track down to Purbang (4020m, Purpang), a forlorn collection of empty tents, cross or wade the Saunre Khola and climb gently up to a basin with a seasonal tent camp and marvellous views back to Panidal La. Called Majela (4340m).

Just over an hour up to Jang La Bhanjyang (4535m, Jangla), which provides huge views back into the grassy basin and the excitement of views north into the Bheri valley and, over the grey ranges, the first glimpse of Kanjiroba Himal (6612m, Kanjiroba) which dominates the trekking north after Ringmo if you go into Upper Dolpo. Jang La is regarded as the entry point into the Dolpo region.

Make a long rocky descent, at first steeply to the last water until the Bheri (Tarakot)then across rockfall with the strong smell of cinnamon and honey from dwarf rhododendons, gaining a small saddle at 4056m which drops to the east and gives views of the sacred Putha Himal (6182m).

Climb under the high fort of Tarakot and bear up valley to the left through pink flowering buckwheat, red amaranth and huge bushes of marijuana on a disused road. The road climbs high above the true left of the Thulo Bheri, now known as the Barbung Khola, then descends through cypress past a white kani to several bhattis at Laisicap (2600m). Cross the large suspension bridge and start up the Tarap Chu (chu is Tibetan for river); the Barbung Khola to the right takes you to Chharka in 4-5 days and so on to Jomson. After crossing suspension bridge we follow the Tarap Khola, along gentle climb up and river drops away below, 600m in only 3km, and eventually with many ups and downs due to recent slips reaches a wider part of the gorge with the seasonal tents of Laina Odar (3370m).

Today is very beautiful day’s walk in spectacular country. An initial steep 200m climb opens onto a grand traverse very high above the river, with sheer drops and bonsai juniper trees because of the increasingly arid climate. Beautiful convoluted cliffs on both sides lead to four seasonal tents in Chhyugar (3441m) for lunch. Cross to the true left for a spell then back to the true right at Thanjam. Many redstarts and finches but little other wildlife due to the aridity. The tortured yellow cliffs support pines and cedars made monumental by dryness. Nawarpani (3475m, Pibuk) had two dirty tents but a large meadow further up at Pivo Odar.

Cross the Tarap Chu on a very short bridge with a narrow canyon to the left and climb steeply to two large chortens (3870m, Kesila, Serkam).Descend to another short bridge and regain the true right of the Tarap Chu. Over a ridge descend to a bridge on the Sisaul Khola. Little climb up from Sisaul khola, the trail leads through wide open valley and soon reach at Langa and we stop for lunch. After lunch, we follow loop in and loop out trail then after an hour we see Tarap village at distant and after a while we reach at Dho Tarap village.

For acclimatisation a day exploring Do Tarap and nearby gompas is well spent. The Ribo Bhumpa Gompa just above the main village is marvellous and colourful with a range of original colour paintings from both Bon and Nyingma sects and great views of the eastern valley that leads to Chharka, the southern valley by which you arrived, and the other small villages of Tarap to the northwest. The Doro Gompa to the east is a leisurely 1hr walk. Across the river is the Bon Shipcock Gompa surrounded by characteristic chortens and with a memorable carved door and prayer wheel in the first room. In visiting these gompas, always make a substantial donation to ensure that they remain conserved and valued by the local community.

Heading to west out of Dho Tarap, either near the river or higher up so as to pass through a huge decaying kani. Pass the Western-funded Crystal Mountain School, we pass through Kakar Tagmar village where we visit Kakar gompa. After 15 munites we reach Tokyau village and the valley divides, keep left on the true right of the stream and keep up the first broad valley to the northwest, climbing above Tokyu (4180m, Tok-khyu) and other track goes to Tinje all the way to China border. We follow the left trail crossing Tokyau khola nd visit Jyampa Gompa. From Tokyau we switch to the northwest for 2 hours and then we again switch to west and next is camp at Numala Base camp.

A high camp means the sun comes early and it is only 1.5hrs to Numa La (5309m, Numala Bhanjyang south), which is probably 1km south of the pass marked on the map. A bit steep to start, then less so into a high glacial bowl at 5000m, then a final push to the top. It can be windy on top and there is a great view by climbing 20m to the east. There were clear views back to Mt Dhaulagiri (8167m) and some of the northern Annapurnas, with snow remaining on many north faces after a recent storm. Shey Shikar (6139m) and Kanjiroba (6612m) are visible to the northwest and Norbu Kang(6085m) to the south.Climb up an arid and deserted slope to Numa La ( La means “pass” in Tibetan and Numa “like a woman's breast”!). Descent on the northern slope to find the beautiful balcony path coming from Lagme Che. Ascent to the Baga La base camp, magnificent view of the snow-capped peaks which dominate the camp. 

The climb outside the tent door on frosted rocks will get your heart racing and it would be very tough in snow. Climb steeply on switchbacks on the left side of the valley, although there is an even steeper alternative across the creek to the right. The changing perspectives of heavily glaciated Norbu Kang made every rest enjoyable. Sweet cinnamon smell of dwarf rhododendrons in the sun, the smell of high Nepal. There is a possible high camp with water at about 4750m, where we sighted six Tibetan snowcocks running over grassy scree and calling hoarsely. Continue right towards the obvious saddle, passing an array of raised stones into a moraine bowl and traverse to Baga La (5160m) crowned with slapping prayer flags. Descend steeply at first and enter a rocky valley, staying high on the true right through large rockfalls and across two creeks, the second of which provides a sheltered lunch place. Make a spectacular wild descent in moraine among arid cliffs. The valley turns a corner left where we encountered a yak train carrying timber towards us who did not want to be photographed, then drops very steeply past waterfalls onto zigzags for a long way down to a huge flat-floored valley with prayer flags at Dajok Tang (4080m, Bagala Phedi). Now there is a very pleasant autumn stroll down the valley on the true right of a sparkling Maquwa Khola (Maduwa Khola) with snow-covered peaks including Kagmara (5960m) ahead and several possible camping sites with nervous marmots. Strong clean astringent smell of juniper after the aridity of the heights. There is a hut (goth) and seasonal tent, just as you sight the shapely Sonam Kang (6019m) up a valley to the east, called Yak Kharka (3995m).

Today is one of the most impressive days of our trek. Pass several sod-covered goths in another meadow downstream, remaining on the true right, then start to traverse and climb high through thorny scrub, blue pines and juniper on an exposed trail. We go up and down on a narrow path, eroded in balcony of cliffs which dominate the confluence of the river Phoksumdo with the Maduwa khola, its grandiose waterfall and the lake Phoksumdo with translucent blue. The arrival on this immense lake, set in orange cliffs with on its edges, the prosperous and remote village of Ringmo is a highlight. Around us, a pine forest with very resinous apples, junipers laden with berries and large expanses of pastures grazed by yaks as well as rows of chortens and soon we reach at camp bank of Phoksundo lake.

In the afternoon we can walk along the lake unde a pine forest and visit the Bön monastery in the presence of a monk. Dolpo is one of the rare regions of the Tibetan cultural area to practice this pre-Buddhist religion, however very close to Buddhism. Lots of activities in the village in the evening: the herds of yaks come back from the pastures, women sift seeds on the roofs, others go to look for pots of water, the children play in the courtyards and alleys with objects very rudimentary. Ringmo is a village inhabited by Dolpo Pa (Bhotias). 

After lunch we leave Phoksundo Lake and we pass through the Rigmo village, Chorten and lush vegetation. Soon we descent down having the amazing views of Phoksundo water falls we camp at Sumduwa.

After breakfast we cross the suspension bridge and pass near by Tapriza School. Then walk along the lush vegetation and river bank of Phoksundo for 2 hours reach at Rechi. From there, we cross and re-cross the river several times as we make our way up the narrow gorge, ascending the undulating trail through forests of bamboo, and conifer and lush vegetation of Shey Phoksundo National park we reach at Chhepka.

Today is last day of our trek.From Chhepka we descent down through the Syangta and Ankhe Khola. Further continue the trail we pass through Kageni and Suligad checkpost to Rupgad and we stop ther for lunch. After lunch we follow the Thuli Bheri river upto Kalagauda and from Kalagauda we climb up to Juphal.

In the morning we fly to Nepalgunj and Kathmandu.

This is a contingency day in case of problems with the weather-dependent flight out. If we have flown on schedule this will be a day to relax and enjoy the delights of Kathmandu.

Our representative will drop you at Tribhuvan International airport.